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While new names at Dior and Chanel created major attention during the current Paris fashion week, it was the first show from Balenciaga that utterly dominated the media spotlight. The event featured a surprise appearance: Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, making her initial European outing in a trio of years.

That Saturday night in Paris, the spectacle of Chanel, Dior – and even the notable attendee – were all outshone with the overwhelming presence of the Balenciaga presentation.

The Duchess delivered an extra layer of razzle-dazzle to the Parisian runway.

Until that moment, the overall atmosphere surrounding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut had been relatively serene. Balenciaga is a venerated institution, and Piccioli is universally praised as a world-leading designer. Additionally, he is cherished for his status as the most congenial figure in the industry. The general expectation was that dramatic fashion statements had left the brand's identity with the move of provocateur designer Demna to Gucci. Yet, occasionally the kindest people can deliver surprises, and the royal benediction greatly increased the media frenzy.

He sees himself as an master builder, crafting silhouettes that do not contact the human form.

Notably, the main idea of Piccioli’s “manifesto”, as he described it behind the scenes, was female emancipation. His starting point was Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1957 sack dress, a shape that sits proud of the body, neither amplifying nor constricting a female form. According to Piccioli that this look was a radical expression of a shifting zeitgeist that was starting to transition from the conservative norms of the 1950s towards the progressive 1960s. The idea centered on progress for women. It liberated women from the constraints of clothing that emphasize the physical form and talk about their body. This design enabled women to exist unencumbered.”

Some of the house's famous designs were featured in the show, such as this ‘cocoon’ coat.

Apparel with independent structure are central to the Balenciaga's philosophy. Piccioli equated this creative process to being an structural designer: constructing shapes that do not touch the body, while continuously keeping in mind the human beings who will wear and move in them. The founder was deeply interested in the body and with textiles, and with a additional component – the space in between.”

First onto the catwalk was a modern reinterpretation of the sack dress, elongated to an ankle-skimming hem, accompanied by elegant gloves – but also with distinctive eyewear that acted as a clear homage to the futuristic edge of the brand's recent past.

The designer, who at 58 wears beaded necklaces and exudes an peaceful, free-spirited demeanor, does not view seeing design as a personal rivalry. He states that it is more admirable for fashion artists to appreciate each other’s skills. Piccioli noted that he was hoping for a harmonious balance between the haute couture heritage of the fashion label, and its more recent streetwear era. Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes were prominently featured in the collection: a ‘cocoon’ coat, this time in a striking shade, and a flared dress in a intense purple color.

The phenomenon of Parisian style has become a highly profitable trend. This creative talent is an American man, but he masters this style code. The designer collaborated closely with the renowned designer during her period as creative director, and then devoted a half-decade developing the American brand into a flagship for accessible taste. Currently leading Céline, he is infusing the welcoming philosophy of American style to French fashion. So there were timeless coats, straw baskets, and silk scarves used as accents – all the classic elements of Parisian elegance – presented in sunny colors, with an upbeat American tone. “Céline isn’t a mean brand, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” Rider stated following the event. My desire is that everyone feels desirable in Celine. When you wear this brand, you may not have the wildest design, but you have the perfect garment, and you have the confidence to wear it.”